Macheros is a sleepy little town, home to as many horses, sheep and dogs as people. Its modest Catholic church is the center of community life, and folk Catholic rituals mark the passage of time. Holidays that have become touristy and commercial in larger Mexican cities remain small scale and heartfelt in Macheros, where Joel’s sisters make wreathes to sell to their neighbors for Day of the Dead and young men vye for the role of Jesus in the annual passion play.